The aim of the construction method presented here is to draft a pattern for a jacket that is perfectly fitted and tailored for a specific client. Ideally, a jacket drafted based on a system such as this should fit the client perfectly at the first fitting, but typically, adjustments to the patterns are made during the production and fittings of the jacket. The horizontal and vertical measurements constituting the foundation for this pattern drafting process are taken from the client in an upright, static position, in the same manner as advocated in the majority of the construction systems described in pattern cutting literature (cf. Aldrich, 1980/2004; Doyle, 2005; MacDonald, 2010; Öberg et al. 1985/1999). It could be argued that the tailored suit jacket is generally a garment type that supports such an upright position and that, with its shaped chest and constructed sleeve settings, it prevents certain movements while supporting others (cf. Hollander, 1994:106).
The horizontal and vertical measurements constituting the foundation for this pattern drafting process are taken from the client in an upright, static position
For such an iconic and widespread garment type as the suit jacket – with a historical development stretching across several centuries, both with respect to the form of the garment and the technicalities of various constructions (cf. Hollander 1994:106) – it is difficult to say whether the construction method generates the form and function or whether a desired expression and function have raised demand for a certain type of method. However, it is clear that the correlation between working method and the artefact created is strong in the construction of a tailored suit jacket.